Into the Wilds of Oregon - Gilbert Finlay's Trip to Crater Lake in 1912

The following is a cherished family letter that my great-grandfather wrote to his brother Gordon recounting his 105-mile trip from Roseburg to Crater Lake on horseback in 1912. Gilbert had moved out to Roseburg in 1910 from Michigan to start a dental practice, and he immediately got involved with athletics at Roseburg High School. Gilbert became the first boy's basketball coach at RHS and coached the Indians to the 1916-17 Oregon state basketball title. He also served as the school's athletic director from 1913 to 1921. In November of 1925, Gilbert was honored for his contributions to Roseburg High School athletics by having the football field, Finlay Field, dedicated in his name. July 9, 1912 Dear Gordon: I am going to tell you about a trip I have just taken into the wilds of Oregon. Another young fellow and myself took the trip which lasted two weeks. His name is Jack Wharton, so when I speak of him as "Jack," you will know of whom I refer. The trip was made over mountain trail, and we had three horses, each riding one and packing another. It was about 105 miles to Crater Lake, the end of our trip, and then we came back the same trail. Starting out Sunday AM about 6:00, we had gone just eight miles when we discovered we had left our bread behind, but decided not to go back after it. Arriving at Glide, about eighteen miles from here, we ate our lunch and prepared our pack, saddled our horses and got a start on our journey. We had two good old war horses and a fiery little pack horse, which had just been broken a week before. "Baldy," "Bunch," and "Rosie" were their names. Our first afternoon was uneventful except that our pack came loose and part of it rolled down the mountain side. We then packed it ourselves, our first pack, and it remained on the rest of the trip. We crossed a couple of creeks that afternoon. Rock and Honey Creeks, and camped just beyond Honey Creek a ways. This day's journey was about 32 miles altogether. We had just had supper and the tent up when we got a thunder shower, but our tent was a good one and we didn't get wet. Next AM we were up early, horses up, saddled, Rosie packed, breakfast over and we were away again. Rosie didn't like the idea of us packing her so we had to be careful with her. We passed through some very interesting country that day, high inclines, narrow ledges and some pretty rocky country. One place in particular where we passed the trail is blasted in solid rock and looking directly above our heads we see rocks as high as 300 feet above us, and then taking a glance downward about 200 feet, we find large boulders extending out into the river. The trail at this point is just about wide enough for a horse with a pack on, to pass by. One misstep would land us on the rocks below, over 200 feet. These big boulders were covered with moss and were very pretty as they dipped down into the river, and the forest as a background made it very beautiful. We passed an occasional log cabin that day and camped near one that evening. We crossed a suspension bridge that day, which was built by the Rangers. It is quite a bridge and they had a great time packing the cable for the bridge. They had 30 miles strung out and packed with this cable to get it over the mountains. Made about 20 miles that day. Had our dinner at Steamboat that day and will have more to tell about our camping place there on our return trip. Left about 7 AM next morning after an early breakfast and started up to Illyhee Mountain soon afterward. We had a little excitement on the trail that AM. As we were about half way up we came upon a large tree in the trail. We went ahead and cut it so we could pass. I was leading Rosie and riding Baldy. Got by alright but Rosie refused to come. I got off and tried to lead her by but she wouldn't move. Jack got behind and gave her a gentle tap and up she went and over the trail down the mountain side. Turning over three times she landed on our pack in some brush. We got her up and started up the side when over she went again and got the pack under a log. We immediately unpacked and carrying our pack to the trail, packed up one of the other horses and walked to the top of the mountain. We built a little trail and cut another log away but Rosie was not to be moved. We left her there and went on up the mountain and picked strawberries. Coming back in an hour, we found her still farther down. We lead her away down and around the other side and finally got her up, immediately packed up and were away again. Had lunch about 3 PM that day and in an hour we were off for Big Camas. By the way, Rosie is now known as "Rollie" and hereafter she will be known as such. The Illyhee Mountain is very high and upon its top it is level as a table top. It was a name the Indians gave it as the old tribes used to meet there and hold their sports and races. It is about 2 ½ miles long and about 1 ½ miles wide. We ate dinner that noon at Oak Flats and had fresh strawberries and cream, bread and butter and coffee. Away again in an hour and climbed a very high mountain that afternoon. Just zigzagged back and forth until we reached the top and found ourselves looking down on Bald Eagle and Rattlesnake Points. This was the steepest trail we had to climb and looking up from the bottom it seemed directly over our heads. From the top of Oak Flats we could see all over the surrounding country. The trail was pretty rough here and several times we would come right to a point where we could see several thousand feet directly below us. It was cool and great travelling through this country as it was very beautiful in the forests. We reached Big Camas that evening about 6 PM and camped for the night. Had a fine supper that evening, hot biscuits, strawberries, bacon, corn and coffee. We decided to stay over a day here as there was good feed for the horses and we wanted to give them a rest. Next AM we went fishing in Fish Creek. We caught about 20 fine mountain trout when a hail storm came up. It just peppered us for a whole half hour and our shoulders were pretty sore where they landed, and I don't believe many missed us. We were under trees but that didn't help much and the hail stones were from 1 inch to 1 ½ inches through. After the storm we "beat it" for camp about four miles distant. We made the best of it and when we got to camp, played catch with the hail stones, while we were partially drying out. Had some hot coffee and after getting part of our clothes dry we started getting supper as it was getting late in the afternoon. We enjoyed a good meal and in the evening we paid the Rangers a visit. We knew most of them and they are a fine bunch of fellows. They told us of different falls and how to reach them. The work of the Rangers consists of protecting game and forest laws, building new trails, timber cruising, and watching the grazing lands, besides having charges of fighting forest fires. They have stations about every 20 miles along the trail where they make their headquarters. As we were going over that evening we saw a young buck out in the middle of pasture and it didn't move until we got within 35 yards of it. Then it quietly walked off into the brush. We didn't shoot at it because this is closed season; anyway, the Rangers were there that evening. Saw lots of deer tracks that AM and one passed about 15 feet from our tent that night. It rained a little next AM so we remained over a day and dried out thoroughly and helped a fellow in distress. He had lost his horse and was wet through. Later we found the horse but he had left on foot for home. Put the horse in the pasture until our return when we brought it in. About noon we started out on an excursion trip to the Umpqua Falls. This was about five miles distant from camp and as the last part of the trail was very steep, we tied our horses and walked down. After going through the brush for about a mile we came to the cliff directly above the falls. We wanted a good view and also some pictures so we decided to get down below the falls. After some little time and by sliding from rock to rock and tree to tree, hands and knees playing a good part in our descent, we reached the bottom. Got a fine picture of the falls, painted our names on a big rock and prepared for the ascent. After considerable exertion and some exciting experiences, we reached the top. I say exciting because once as I grasped a tree to pull myself up it came loose and brought rock and all down, but fortunately I caught a tree some feet below and was again on the climb. These falls are very pretty; the water comes flying along and the stream grows gradually narrower until it comes through a narrow gorge and down it shoots about 15 feet only to be followed a moment later by a fall of 50 feet. There is a large volume of water comes over here and it makes a great spray as it falls on the rocks beneath. We were wet through by our exertions and by the time we reached our horses, we were getting cold. After reaching camp we built a good fire and after enjoying a good meal, we were in high spirits again. Good warm mush, fish, bread and butter and coffee tastes pretty good at such times. Sat out by our fire that evening drying out our boots and wishing our friends could be there to enjoy the trip with us. It seemed good out there that evening, all was quiet except an occasional ring from the horses' bell; it was cool but a fine fire was blazing in front of us. There we had about three miles of stiff climbing, scaling rocks, and sliding down the cliff, and carrying our guns, camera, field glasses and those heavy boots, which by this time are getting light. Next AM (Friday) we are off for Diamond Lake, after an early breakfast. We had good trail most of the day, although we had an occasional tree to cut out of the trail. You see after the heavy snows of the winter there are lots of big trees broken down. The rhododendrons along the trail were beautiful, and the King at his coronation didn't have anything on us as we rode through this bed of flowers. As we were passing the judges' stand, which was occupied by the trees of the forest, the applause was deafening, especially so as we passed by a mountain stream with a high waterfall in it. Time after time we were compelled to doff our hats or the branches of the trees would kindly do it for us. We were going along rather peacefully when Rollie decided she would again do the "loop the loop" stunt and simply turned over and rolled on our pack. Our canned goods possessed a few added curves and angles as a result of her wonderful feat. We ate a hurried lunch that noon and were off again. Took a picture of Florence Falls, these falls being very beautiful and near to the trail. We passed over a high mountain that afternoon from which we could see Mt. Bailey, Diamond Peak, Three Sisters, and the rim of the crater, all covered with snow. The trail along here is cleared about 8 feet wide and signs along the way tell us what avenue we are traveling along. The avenues are named after the fellows that cleared them. We reached Diamond Lake about 6 PM that evening and camped at the foot of the lake. Forming one shore of the lake is Mt. Bailey, snow-capped all the year round and about five miles in length. It is a very pretty lake about 6 miles long and a little over 2 wide. We sat out on the edge of the lake that evening and had a big campfire on the beach. It was beautiful as the moon came up bright and full and shining across the lake and over on snow-capped Mt. Bailey, it made a pretty view. It was cold that evening but we had plenty of bedding, so enjoyed it. Saturday morning we made a start for Crater Lake, the terminal point of our journey. The air was fine and cool and reminded me of the good old football days. Just brisk enough to fill one full of life, but we hadn't travelled many miles before we had some of this taken out of us. The signs that mark the trail were all torn down by the snow and as the trees in there are mostly small scrubby jack pines, they were hard to blaze. We got lost and wandered all that afternoon without finding the trail. At last we tied our horses and started out on foot. Finding no trail we decided to take opposite directions and come together in half an hour. Well the sun went down early and it got cloudy so we lost our directions. We began shooting and at last we came together and began to search for the horses. Couldn't find anything of them and after hunting until nearly dark we found their hoof prints. Following these up for about a mile and a half we found them just as it was getting dark. Started back for the main trail when a blizzard overtook us. We couldn't see each other but kept together by means of the bells on the horses. Coming to a group of fir trees, we unpacked, built up a big fire and pitched our tent. Had supper and after feeding the horses we turned in. Upon arising next morning we found two of our horses gone and so we packed all of our belongings on the one old horse, "Baldy;" we hiked it back to the head of Diamond Lake, blazing the trail as we went. After getting warmed up a little and drying out we went in search of the horses. Found them half way down the lake and got them back to camp where we caught them. We had a good dinner and in the afternoon washed up, dried our blankets and put everything in readiness for our trip next day. In the afternoon we took a trip down to the foot of the lake where we had left some provisions. Went to bed early that evening and were up at 4:30 AM. Had breakfast, horses saddled and packed up and away at 5:40 AM. We had some difficulty in locating the trail but were successful this time and after putting up signs, which we had painted the day before, we proceeded on our journey, blazing the trail as we went. This was done for the benefit of those who may be going over the trail later in the year. On this part of the trip we crossed a desert about three miles wide and four long. Just after crossing it we run into snow and find it impossible for our horses to get through. We tied our horses and started out on foot. The snow was from 15 to 30 feet deep and a steady climb up all the way for five miles. We cut fir boughs and placed them along the snow all the way so we could find our way back. This proved a good move as our tracks were melted away when we came back. Every once in a while we would come upon a hole where if one fell in he would go out of sight, places where it had melted more than others. We were pretty well "all in" when we arrived at the rim of the crater. After taking some pictures, painting our names on a boulder and shoving over a big rock and hearing it go bouncing down the cliff, we ate lunch and started back. Just a word about the lake. The space it occupies was formerly the crater of a large volcano. It erupted again and there is a small island now, the result of the second eruption. It has its little crater and we got a picture of it. The lake is about 8 miles across, the water is 2,000 feet deep in places and from the rim of the crater down to the water is 2 miles. It is one of the wonders of the world. After reaching the horses we packed up and were away again for Diamond Lake. Reached there that evening and were ready for bed after eating a big supper. We had a hard day but were fully rested by morning. At Diamond Lake we met 5 bands of sheep coming in to graze for the summer. In the morning (Tuesday), we left for Big Camas and spent an uneventful morning. It was rather cloudy and the country not very interesting, but in the afternoon the sun came out bright and we had that nice woody forest to travel through again. We took a little side trip in the afternoon, paying a visit to Watson Falls. We tied our horses and following through the underbrush for a mile we came upon Watson Falls. This is where the water falls 300 feet and as it is straight down from the falls to the rocks below we are unable to get down to see them from below. By going several miles around one could get down but time would not permit. After getting a picture we lean out over the rocks and are greeted by a loud report as the water lands on the rocks below. One doesn't spend many minutes in this position however, as he might get seasick. We didn't arrive at Big Camas that evening until 8:30 PM but were not going to make a hasty departure in the AM. We slept late and spent the morning washing, cleaning up, cooking, etc. Had an early dinner and spent a couple of hours on Fish Creek, where we caught enough of those nice mountain trout for two meals. Coming back to camp we immediately packed up and were off for Oak Flats. This was an ideal camping place away up high in the mountains, opposite Bald Eagle and Rattlesnake Points. Covered with grass and just enough big oaks to make it plenty shady and with mountain streams running through it, the river several miles below, it is an ideal place and would make a grand park. Extending about 200 feet high right in its center is a high elevation and covered with trees. We enjoyed our camp there that evening and would have liked to spend several days there. Next day we made Steamboat where we camped for the night. We had an ideal camping place there as we had a rock range in the rear, a fireplace near our living room which was roofed over. Had a dining room table, kitchen table and several chairs, besides benches being built across the sides of the dining room table. Oh, we were right at home there and spent the evening of the Fourth there. The trail from here back leads along the river and there are many beautiful sights to be seen as there are innumerable rapids in the river. It was a great trip; enough excitement to make it interesting, beautiful scenery, and Jack is a good cook, which is a whole lot. It kept us busy most of the time but we enjoyed real sleep every night and felt frisky when the morning rolled around. Your Loving Brother, Gilbert Finlay, "Gib" First photo: Crater Lake 1912, by Jack Wharton we believe Second photo: Gilbert Finlay 1912, next to Rosie we believe Third photo: Jack Wharton For more on Gilberts connection with Roseburg High School athletics, DC Sports Online has this article about his time at RHS. https://www.douglascountysportsonline.com/dc-greats/15-dc-greats/dc-greats/798-dr-gilbert-finlay See also Finlay Field history: https://rhs.roseburg.k12.or.us/athletics/general-information/finlay-field